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Ambroise is one of the top winemakers of his generation, and his distinctive reds wring every nuance of flavour out of the grapes. 2002 was an exceptional red burgundy year, and this mature, powerful, herby, truffley, meaty beaune with a fine leafy finish is ready for drinking now, but will also cope with the first game dishes later on in the summer.

Gérard Mouton’s pinot noirs have burst out of Burgundy like a rocket, with last week’s village givry now joined by this single-vineyard offering. This burgundy from the most important Côte Chalonnaise red wine village after Mercurey punches above its weight. Plenty of fine, fleshy, strawberry-charged spice with a gorgeous gamey finish.

Burgundian rising star, Anne-Sophie Debavelaere, is clearly as talented a maker of red wines as white – this fancy beaune is a delight. Astonishingly, Debavelaere has reached this degree of competence without any formal training. What I loved most was its fine, silky texture and elegant, ripe, strawberry and rose-scented palate

Gentillesse de l'accueil, qualité du service, excellence des préparations, magnifique carte des vins, à dominance sudiste, raisonnablement tarifée, c'est le prototype du restaurant moderne où il fait bon retourner avec faim et sans fin.

Nice everyday Rosé's and Reds - the Isolette Rosé Aquarelle and the Isolette Rouge cuvée Prestige are well worth the visit. Can order on line - also worth a look are the terrines just delicious - I would recommend the TERRINE DE TAUREAU DE CAMARGUE and the TERRINE DE CANARD AUX FIGUES

No point celebrating summer without a good beaujolais, and this superior village or cru beaulolais stands out from the pack. Morgon is the second largest of the ten crus beaujolais and the second boldest after Moulin à Vent, renowned for its firm, chunky wines. This is a well-made, elegant, fleshy, plummy beaujolais with real pizzazz.

There was no denying the star quality of this pinot noir from the 2006 vintage. Domaine Blain-Gagnard is tiny, like most Burgundy estates, but this has oodles of seductive, light, spicy, beefy, truffley fruit, complete with an elegant, long, sweet, earthy finish. At this price you will want to snap up plenty of it. See you in the queue.

Chianti is a good summer standby red as its cherry-styled, violet-scented, faintly bitter fruit goes down well with al fresco summer meals that feature strong meats and cheeses. This hand-picked, part oak-aged Ormanni is predominantly sangiovese, but with 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon; expect lots of rich, leathery, savoury, spicy, chocolatey fruit.

A noticeable seam of fresh acidity runs through this wine, complimenting the ripe summer fruits and deep mineral notes, underlayed by a distinct, grainy tannic grip.

A completely different style to the Clos de la Roche, initially a little more reticent but with more muscle and complexity.